Making an offer
Home inspections: what's checked, what it costs, and red flags
Quick answer
A home inspection is a visual review of a home's structure and systems — roof, foundation, electrical, plumbing, heating and cooling — done after your offer is accepted, usually within 7 to 10 days. It typically costs $300 to $600 for a single-family home. Sewer lines, radon, mold and pests usually need separate inspections.
An inspection is the one chance to learn what's really wrong with a house before you own it. It's not pass/fail, and every home — even new construction — will have a list of findings. The goal is to separate routine wear from expensive problems you need to negotiate or walk away from.
What a standard inspection covers
- Structure: foundation, framing, signs of settling or water intrusion
- Roof: covering, flashing, gutters, visible age and damage
- Exterior: siding, grading and drainage, windows, doors, decks
- Electrical: panel, wiring type, outlets, GFCI protection
- Plumbing: supply and drain lines, water heater, visible leaks
- HVAC: furnace, air conditioning, ductwork, age and operation
- Interior: walls, ceilings, floors, stairs, built-in appliances
- Attic and insulation: ventilation, insulation levels, moisture
Inspectors only report what they can see and access. They don't open walls or move furniture.
What it doesn't cover (and add-ons worth considering)
| Specialty inspection | When to get it | Typical cost |
|---|---|---|
| Sewer scope | Homes over 20–30 years old, mature trees | $150–$350 |
| Radon test | Most of the U.S.; required in some areas | $150–$250 |
| Termite / wood-destroying insects | Required by some loans and states | $75–$150 |
| Mold | Visible staining, musty odor, past leaks | $300–$600 |
| Chimney | Any working fireplace | $100–$300 |
| Septic or well | Non-municipal water or sewer | $300–$600 |
Cost and timing
A standard inspection costs about $300 to $600, depending on the home's size, age and location. Your contract's inspection period is usually 7 to 10 days, so book the inspector as soon as your offer is accepted. Attend if you can — you'll learn far more from walking through with the inspector than from the report alone.
Red flags that matter
- Foundation cracks wider than about 1/4 inch, or doors and windows that stick across the house
- Active water intrusion in the basement or crawlspace
- Roof near or past the end of its life
- Outdated or unsafe wiring (knob-and-tube, some aluminum wiring, recalled panels)
- Sewer line breaks or root intrusion
- HVAC or water heater well beyond its expected life
Cosmetic items, minor caulking and small repairs aren't worth negotiating over. Focus on safety issues and big-ticket systems.
A real example
The inspection on a $375,000 home finds a 20-year-old roof with an estimated $14,000 replacement cost and a water heater near end of life. Rather than asking for repairs, the buyer requests a $12,000 seller credit at closing. The seller agrees to $10,000. The buyer uses it to reduce closing costs and plans the roof replacement within two years.
What to do after the report
You can accept the home as is, ask the seller to make repairs, ask for a price reduction or closing credit, or cancel under your inspection contingency. Credits are often better than repairs, because you control who does the work and how well.
Frequently asked questions
Should I get an inspection on new construction?
Yes. New homes can have framing, drainage or installation defects. Many buyers schedule a pre-drywall inspection and a final inspection before closing, plus an 11-month inspection before the builder's warranty ends.
Can I waive the inspection?
You can waive the inspection contingency to strengthen an offer, but you can still do an "information only" inspection. Waiving the inspection entirely is risky, especially on older homes.
Does the lender require a home inspection?
Usually not. The lender requires an appraisal, which is about value. The inspection is for your protection and is optional, though strongly recommended.
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